
A chain of alpine lakes and a drowned spruce forest

The most accessible of the three lakes sits at 1,800 metres among the spruce, with a cluster of guesthouses, rowing boats and the trailhead for the walk to the upper lakes.
💡 Rent a rowboat or simply walk the shoreline for the classic reflections.

A rewarding day hike of about three hours climbs through the forest to the larger, wilder middle lake, the scenic highlight for most visitors.
💡 It is a solid uphill walk; start early and bring water and snacks.

A short drive away, this eerie turquoise lake was formed by a landslide; the bleached trunks of a submerged spruce forest still rise from its clear water like masts.
💡 The access road needs a 4×4; arrange transport from Saty.

The gateway village for the lakes offers homestays and guesthouses where you can taste rural Kazakh hospitality, arrange horses and drivers, and slow down to mountain time.
💡 Homestays include hearty meals; bring cash as there are no ATMs.

Following the old herders’ way, horseback rides link the lakes and climb to high pastures with sweeping views, a wonderful way to cover ground between the lakes.
💡 Guides and horses are easily hired in Saty or at the lower lake.
Meals here happen at Saty homestays and lower-lake guesthouses, where hosts serve generous home cooking: soups, plov, fresh bread, dairy, jam and endless tea. Options are simple and hearty rather than varied, so vegetarians should mention it ahead. Pack snacks and water for the day hikes to the upper lakes and Kaindy, where there is nothing to buy.
Drive from Almaty to Saty and the lower Kolsai lake, settle into a homestay, and hike partway or fully up to the middle lake.
Take a 4×4 to the otherworldly Lake Kaindy and its drowned spruce forest, then ride or walk the meadows before heading back.
Saty and the lakes have no ATMs; carry enough tenge for homestays, guides and fees.
The road to Lake Kaindy is rough; hire a driver with a suitable vehicle in Saty.
Nights are cold at altitude even in summer; bring a jacket and good footwear.
The area is near the Kyrgyz border; carry your passport as permits or checks may apply.
Arrange transport from Almaty before you head into the mountains.
Free
Leafy Almaty, futuristic Astana, the pilgrimage city of Turkistan, the red-rock Charyn Canyon and the alpine Kolsai Lakes — the many faces of vast Kazakhstan.