KZ
Almaty
Leafy former capital under the snow-capped Tian Shan
Leafy former capital under the snow-capped Tian Shan
A cable car climbs to this hilltop park above the city for sweeping views of Almaty and the mountains, with a small funfair, a TV tower and cafes at the top.
Ride up at dusk to watch the city lights come on.
This central park shelters the candy-coloured Ascension (Zenkov) Cathedral, one of the tallest wooden buildings in the world, along with a war memorial and eternal flame.
Step inside the cathedral to see the ornate painted interior.
Almaty’s bustling central market piles high with horse-meat sausage, dried fruit, nuts, honey, spices and Central Asian cheeses, a feast for the senses and the stomach.
Sample before you buy and haggle politely on bulk purchases.
Just above the city, Medeu is the world’s highest Olympic skating rink, and a gondola continues up to the Shymbulak ski resort with year-round mountain views.
Even in summer, take the gondola up for the alpine scenery.
A stunning turquoise alpine lake sits in the mountains an hour from town, ringed by peaks and spruce forest, a favourite day trip for its unreal colour.
Go with a driver or tour; the road is rough and it sits at altitude.
Almaty’s food reflects its Silk Road position. Try beshbarmak (boiled meat over flat noodles, the national dish), plov, Uyghur lagman noodles and manti dumplings, plus Korean-Kazakh carrot salads that you’ll see on many menus. Horse meat, in sausages such as kazy, is a local speciality.
The Green Bazaar (Zelyony Bazar) is the best place to graze on dried fruit, nuts, cheese and fresh bread. Almaty also has Kazakhstan’s liveliest café and craft-beer scene, concentrated around the city centre, and a hearty meal in a local canteen costs only a few dollars. Try kumys (fermented mare’s milk) at least once.
Almaty International Airport is about 15 km northeast of the centre, with connections across Central Asia, Turkey, the Gulf and parts of Europe. Several city buses, including route 92, run from the terminal in roughly 30–45 minutes, and ride-hailing is inexpensive. Almaty has a single metro line along the centre, but buses and Yandex Go taxis are the main way around. Trains connect Almaty with Astana, Turkistan and other cities, and buses cross to Bishkek in Kyrgyzstan in about four to five hours.
Almaty is good value by European standards, though it is Kazakhstan’s most expensive city. Figures are per person per day in US dollars, excluding flights.
A canteen lunch of soup, plov and bread is one of the best-value meals in the city.
Day trips to Big Almaty Lake or Charyn Canyon are cheaper when you share a driver.
Ski passes and hotel prices at Shymbulak rise in the winter holiday period.
Three days lets you combine the city with its mountains. Add more days for Charyn Canyon or the Kolsai Lakes.
Walk through Panfilov Park to the wooden Ascension Cathedral, browse the Green Bazaar, then take the cable car up Kok-Tobe for sunset over the city.
Go up Kok-Tobe just before sunset and come down after dark for the city lights.
Head up to the Medeu skating rink, then take the gondola to Shymbulak for alpine views, hiking in summer or skiing in winter.
Bring a warm layer: it is much cooler up the mountain than in the city.
Take a morning trip to the turquoise Big Almaty Lake in the mountains south of the city, then return for a relaxed evening in the cafés.
The lake is at around 2,500 m and access rules can change, so check current conditions before you go.
Almaty is the springboard for southern Kazakhstan’s mountains, canyons and lakes; allow extra days for trips.
Yandex Go and Yandex Maps are the reliable way to get taxis and navigate the city.
Mountain lakes and resorts sit high; ascend gradually and carry warm layers even in summer.
Cards work widely in the city, but keep tenge for the bazaar, taxis and mountain stops.
Quick answers for planning time in Almaty, Kazakhstan's largest city.
May to September is best for the city and the surrounding mountains. Winter is cold but good for skiing at Shymbulak.
Three days covers Kok-Tobe, Panfilov Park, the Green Bazaar and Medeu and Shymbulak. Add extra days for trips to Big Almaty Lake, Charyn Canyon or the Kolsai Lakes.
Yandex Go is the easiest way to book taxis, and Yandex Maps works well for navigation. The city also has a metro and buses.
Cards work widely, but carry some tenge for the bazaar, taxis and mountain stops.
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Leafy Almaty, futuristic Astana, the pilgrimage city of Turkistan, the red-rock Charyn Canyon and the alpine Kolsai Lakes — the many faces of vast Kazakhstan.
Planning a wider trip? Our Kazakhstan travel guide covers getting there, costs, when to go and more.