AR
Buenos Aires
The Paris of South America
The Paris of South America
La Boca (the finest neighbourhood in Buenos Aires; the birthplace of tango; the Caminito (the finest outdoor art gallery street in South America; the colourful corrugated iron facades; the tango dancers (free; 11am to sunset)); La Bombonera (the Boca Juniors home; the finest football stadium atmosphere in South America; stadium tour from 800 ARS)) is the finest free afternoon in Buenos Aires.
💡 La Boca and Caminito (free; the finest outdoor art gallery street in South America; the colourful corrugated iron facades; the tango dancers (free; 11am to sunset); La Bombonera stadium tour (from 800 ARS)) — arrive and leave by taxi after dark.
The Recoleta Cemetery (free; daily 8am–6pm; the finest 19th and 20th-century marble mausoleum architecture in South America; over 4,800 mausoleums; the tomb of Evita Perón (the most visited individual grave in South America)) and El Ateneo Grand Splendid (free to enter; the finest bookshop in the world; the converted 1919 opera house; the stage café) are the two essential free Recoleta experiences.
💡 Recoleta Cemetery (free; daily 8am–6pm; the finest marble mausoleum architecture in South America; the tomb of Evita Perón (the most visited individual grave in South America)).
San Telmo (the finest tango and antiques neighbourhood in Buenos Aires; the Feria de San Telmo (every Sunday 8am–5pm; the Plaza Dorrego; the finest antiques market in South America; the tango dancers from noon; free)) is the finest free Sunday in Buenos Aires.
💡 El Ateneo Grand Splendid bookshop (free to enter; daily 9am–10pm; the finest bookshop in the world; the converted 1919 opera house; the original theatre boxes (now reading rooms); the stage café).
The Teatro Colón (the finest opera house in the world; the 60-min guided tour from 2,000 ARS; daily 9am–5pm; the finest horseshoe auditorium acoustic) and the Avenida 9 de Julio (the widest avenue in the world; the Obelisco (the finest Buenos Aires skyline view)) are the two defining Buenos Aires landmark experiences.
💡 Teatro Colón guided tour (from 2,000 ARS; daily 9am–5pm; the finest opera house in the world; the finest acoustic in any horseshoe auditorium; book at teatrocolon.org.ar).
Buenos Aires eating is defined by four specific experiences: the asado (the Argentine wood-fire or charcoal grill; the entire beef animal cooked over the parrilla at a slow heat; the most specifically Argentine meal; the best parrilla experience in Buenos Aires at La Brigada (San Telmo; US$30–60 pp), Don Julio (Palermo; US$40–80 pp; the most celebrated Buenos Aires parrilla; book 2 weeks ahead), and the El Pobre Luis (Las Cañitas; the most authentic working parrilla in the city)), the empanada (the stuffed pastry; carne (ground beef with hard-boiled egg, olive and raisin), humita (corn and cheese), or verdura (greens and cheese); US$2–4 each at any Buenos Aires panaderia or market), the medialunas (the Argentine croissant; sweeter and more buttery than the French croissant; the most specifically Buenos Aires breakfast; US$1–2 each at any café), and the dulce de leche (the caramelised condensed milk; the Argentine national food obsession; on every alfajor, every ice cream, every medialunas, and eaten directly from the jar). The Café Tortoni (Avenida de Mayo 825; since 1858; the most specifically Buenos Aires single institution; the submarino hot chocolate with the churros; US$5–8; free tango shows on weekends), Palermo Soho and Palermo Hollywood (the restaurant and bar districts; the finest Buenos Aires evening dining) are the essential Buenos Aires food addresses.
La Boca (the finest neighbourhood in Buenos Aires; the birthplace of tango; the Caminito (the finest outdoor art gallery street in South America; the colourful corrugated iron facades).
A milonga is where porteños actually dance tango — not a dinner show. Salón Canning (Scalabrini Ortiz 1331; Tuesday from 11pm; 1,500 ARS) is the finest authentic milonga in Buenos Aires.
El Ateneo Grand Splendid (the finest bookshop in the world; Santa Fe 1860, Recoleta; free to enter; daily 9am–10pm).
The Teatro Colón (the finest opera house in the world; Cerrito 628; the finest acoustic in any opera house).
San Telmo (the Feria de San Telmo (Sunday 8am–5pm; free; the Plaza Dorrego; the finest antiques market in South America; tango dancers from noon)). La Boca (taxi; the Caminito; the tango dancers (free); La Bombonera tour (from 800 ARS)). Recoleta Cemetery (free; daily 8am–6pm). El Ateneo Grand Splendid (free; the finest bookshop in the world). Parrilla dinner (Don Julio, Palermo; book ahead).
💡 The Buenos Aires Subte (the SUBE card; available at any Correo Argentino) covers the Recoleta, San Telmo, Palermo Soho, and the Teatro Colón — but La Boca requires a taxi (arrive and leave by taxi; walking from the Caminito after dark is not recommended).
Palermo Soho (the finest street art walk in Buenos Aires; free). Teatro Colón guided tour (from 2,000 ARS; daily 9am–5pm). Milonga (the tango dance hall; from 800 ARS entry; the finest tango from 10pm).
💡 The Don Julio parrilla (Guatemala 4691, Palermo; the highest-rated restaurant in Argentina; the finest Argentine beef; book at donjuliorestaurant.com at least 2 weeks ahead) is the finest single meal in Buenos Aires — the 400g bife de chorizo (sirloin; from 4,500 ARS) with a bottle of Catena Zapata Malbec is the finest beef-and-wine combination in South America.
The Recoleta Cemetery (free), the Museum of Fine Arts MNBA (free), the San Telmo Sunday market (free to browse), the Caminito (free), and the Café.
Don Julio (Guatemala 4691; the most celebrated Buenos Aires parrilla; book 2 weeks ahead; the bife de chorizo (US$25–35 for a 400g cut) and the house Malbec) is the finest single Buenos Aires restaurant experience and worth the advance booking.
Tegui (Costa Rica 5852, Palermo; the finest Buenos Aires restaurant and one of the top 50 restaurants in South America; the tasting menu (US$80–120 pp; 7–9 courses; the finest Argentine produce in the most creative Buenos Aires))
SUBE card top-up (sube.gob.ar) for the Buenos Aires Subte, bus, and the Mitre Line train to Tigre (the finest Argentine public transport value card).
Free
Teatro Colón (teatrocolon.org.ar) for the guided tour booking (from 2,000 ARS; daily 9am–5pm) and the opera and ballet performance tickets.
Free
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