
The Landscape of a Thousand Paintings

The Li River cruise (Lijiang; from Guilin city pier to Yangshuo; ¥520 official rate; 4.5 hours downstream; departs 9am daily) is one of the world’s finest river journeys: 80 kilometres through a landscape of 800-metre limestone karst pinnacles reflected in the still jade-green river, punctuated by bamboo rafts, cormorant fishermen, and water buffalo on the banks. This is the landscape printed on the 20-yuan banknote.
💡 Book directly at the Guilin city pier (4 piers; Zhujiang Pier is the main one) rather than through hotel desks that add commission. The finest photography position is at Xingping village, 60km from Guilin, where the 20-yuan banknote viewpoint is 20 minutes’s walk upstream from the boat stop.

Yangshuo is a small town (population 100,000) at the end of the Li River cruise — surrounded on all sides by karst pinnacles that rise 200–800 metres from rice paddies. The finest experience is a bicycle tour of the Yulong River valley (¥15/day bike rental; ride south from Yangshuo on the riverside path; 15km circuit past traditional Zhuang villages, ancient stone bridges, and bamboo groves). West Street (Xi Jie) in Yangshuo is the backpacker hub for restaurants, cafes, and bars.
💡 Rent a bicycle from West Street in Yangshuo at 7am before the day-trippers arrive. The Yulong River path (south bank; 15km circuit) requires no navigation — follow the river. Moon Hill (Yue Liang Shan; ¥15; 3km from Yangshuo; 20-minute hike) offers the finest panoramic view of the karst valley.

Reed Flute Cave (Lu Di Yan; ¥90; 5km northwest of Guilin; 1h tour; coloured LED lighting) is a 240-metre limestone cave with stalactites, stalagmites, and crystal columns in a surreal illuminated sequence that has been a tourist attraction since the Tang dynasty (7th century AD). Seven Star Park (Qi Xing Gong Yuan; ¥75; east bank of the Li River in Guilin city; 3–4h) is the finest urban park in Guilin, with limestone peaks, pavilions, and a 1,500-year-old Camel Hill.
💡 Reed Flute Cave is best visited as a stop on arrival or departure day in Guilin city — it’s 20 minutes from the train station by taxi. The LED colour lighting is kitsch but effective; the cave itself is genuinely impressive in scale. Book the combined ticket online for a slight discount.

The Longji Rice Terraces (Long Ji Ti Tian; ¥100; 80km north of Guilin; 2h by bus; best day-trip from Guilin or overnight from Guilin) are a 13th-century Zhuang and Yao minority carved terraced rice field system covering an entire mountain range above 1,100 metres. The Ping’an and Dazhai viewpoints are the most dramatic: a 360-degree panorama of green terraces in June (water-filled), golden in October, and snow-covered and stark in January–February.
💡 June (water-filled terraces reflecting sky) and October (golden harvest) are the finest months to visit. The Dazhai viewpoint (#2: Thousand Layers to the Sky) is a 45-minute hike from the village and significantly less crowded than Ping’an Viewpoint #1. Stay overnight in a traditional guesthouse (¥80–150/night) for sunrise from the terraces.
Guilin food is defined by Guilin rice noodles (Guilin mi fen; ¥10–15 for a bowl at any noodle shop; a clear pork-bone broth with thin rice noodles, braised pork, peanuts, and chilli paste) — the Guangxi specialty that has spread across southern China. Beer fish (pi jiu yu; Yangshuo specialty; a whole freshwater fish braised in local Liquan beer with tomato, peppers, and garlic; ¥40–80 depending on size) is the essential Yangshuo dish. West Street in Yangshuo has the most international restaurant options in the region (pizza, pasta, Thai, Mexican) alongside Cantonese and Zhuang specialities. Liuyue Ban (6th Month Half) restaurant on West Street has been the best-value Cantonese-Guangxi fusion in Yangshuo for over 20 years, from ¥50 per person.
Bus from Guilin Bus Station North to Longji Terraces (2h; ¥20 each way; first bus 7:30am). Dazhai viewpoint #2 (Thousand Layers to the Sky; 45-min hike from the car park). Lunch in Dazhai village. Second viewpoint (30 min walk; different angle). Return bus from Heping to Guilin by 5pm. Reed Flute Cave or Seven Star Park on the way back to the hotel if time allows.
Buy tickets at Zhujiang Pier the night before (¥520). Board at 8:30am; departs 9am. 4.5-hour cruise past 80km of karst scenery; Xingping stop (optional 20-min walk to the 20-yuan viewpoint). Arrive Yangshuo 1:30pm. Check in to Yangshuo guesthouse. Afternoon: walk West Street, rent a bicycle. Sunset from the Moon Hill carpark area looking over the karst valley.
Rent a bicycle from West Street (7am; ¥15–30/day; bring a lock). Cycle south along the Yulong River path (15km circuit; 3–4h): Dragon Bridge (Ming dynasty; 11 arches), old Zhuang villages, ancient trees. Return for lunch in Yangshuo (beer fish is the essential meal; from ¥50). Afternoon: bamboo raft on the Yulong River (¥60; 40 min) if not too crowded. Sunset from Xianggong Hill (45-min climb north of Yangshuo; finest karst sunset view).
Bus from Yangshuo to Guilin (¥20; 1.5h; leaves Yangshuo Bus Station). High-speed rail from Guilin North station to Guangzhou (3h), Shenzhen (4h), or Chengdu (4.5h). Or fly from Guilin Liangjiang International Airport (taxi from city; 40 min).
Official Li River cruise tickets (from ¥520 adult; from ¥260 children; 4.5h Guilin to Yangshuo) are sold at the Zhujiang Pier ticket office in Guilin.
Guilin city is a practical hub but not beautiful.
Longji (Dragon’s Backbone) terraces (80km north of Guilin; 2h by bus from Guilin Bus Station North; ¥100 entry) are best visited the day after arriving in Guilin, before the Li River cruise to Yangshuo.
Spring mist on the karst mountains (April–May) creates the “ink painting” landscape that defines the Guilin aesthetic: pinnacles floating above low cloud, rice paddies reflecting silver sky.
Xingping (a village 60km from Guilin; accessible by minibus or the cruise stop) has a 20-minute walk upstream to the limestone formation printed on the 20-yuan note.
The traditional cormorant fishing of the Li River (using trained birds on bamboo rafts to catch fish) is now performed primarily for tourism.
Download the Guangxi province offline map before departure. Essential for cycling the Yulong River valley and hiking to viewpoints at Longji where mobile signal is absent.
Free
Install before landing. Essential for Google, WhatsApp, and all Western apps in mainland China. Cannot be downloaded after arrival.
Free
Link a foreign Visa/Mastercard via WeChat Pay International before departure. Essential for ferry tickets, attraction entry, and rural restaurant payments in the Guilin region.
Free
Download Chinese offline language pack. Restaurant menus in Yangshuo village are bilingual; rural Longji village menus are Chinese only. Camera translation mode handles everything.
Free
From ancient capitals to ultra-modern megacities — explore more of China’s extraordinary destinations.