Alexandria

Top Sights in Alexandria

Bibliotheca Alexandrina

The Bibliotheca Alexandrina (2002; LE 70) is built on the approximate site of the original Library of Alexandria (founded 288 BC). The Snøhetta-designed building — a 160m disc tilted toward the sea at 16° — holds 8 million books across 11 reading levels and houses four museums and three art galleries.

💡 Bibliotheca Alexandrina at 10am opening on a weekday (LE 70; the reading rooms empty; the granite script wall; the slanted disc roof) is the finest architecture experience in modern Egypt.

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Pompey’s Pillar & Kom el-Shoqafa

Pompey’s Pillar (27m high; 297 AD; the largest monolithic column in the world outside Rome) was erected above the ruins of the Serapeum temple. Kom el-Shoqafa, 200m south, is the 2nd-century AD Graeco-Roman catacomb complex — the finest funerary monument in Egypt outside the Valley of the Kings, mixing Egyptian and Roman iconography across three underground floors.

💡 Kom el-Shoqafa catacombs (LE 180; the 2nd-century AD Graeco-Roman tombs; 3 floors down a spiral staircase) mix Egyptian and Roman funerary iconography — less visited than the Citadel and far more extraordinary.

Qaitbay Citadel

The Qaitbay Citadel (LE 100; 1477 AD) was built on the exact site of the Pharos Lighthouse — the seven-storey lighthouse (280 BC; one of the Seven Wonders of the Ancient World) was destroyed by earthquake in 1375 AD. The citadel’s sea position on the Pharos peninsula gives the finest panorama of the Alexandria harbour.

💡 The Qaitbay Citadel sea wall (LE 100) is built on the site of the Pharos Lighthouse — the finest view of the Alexandria harbour from the exact promontory where one of the Seven Wonders of the World once stood.

The Corniche & Alexandria’s Mediterranean Soul

The Alexandria Corniche runs 26km along the Mediterranean coast — the finest seafront promenade in Africa. The 5km walk between the Qaitbay Citadel and the Bibliotheca passes the Stanley Bridge, the Art Deco apartment buildings of the cosmopolitan era, and the freshest seafood restaurants in Egypt.

💡 The Abu Qir tram (LE 2; from Ramleh Station; 45 min) is the finest cheap experience in Alexandria — the coastal tram followed by a seafood lunch in the harbour where Nelson’s Battle of the Nile was fought.

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Eating & Drinking

Alexandria is the finest seafood city in Egypt and one of the finest in the Mediterranean: the proximity to the Mediterranean fishing grounds, the Delta shrimp farms, and the strong Greek, Italian and Lebanese culinary traditions of the Alexandrian community produce a food culture that is dramatically different from Cairo. The fish (the sea bass, the seabream, the mullet, the tuna, the swordfish — all landed at the Anfushi fish market; the EGP 150–400 for a full grilled fish dinner at the harbour-side restaurants; the fish weighed, the price calculated, then grilled over charcoal and served with the mezze spread — the tahini, the babaganoush, the salad, the bread), the shrimp (the Delta shrimp; the finest in Egypt; the fried shrimp sandwich from the Corniche stalls at EGP 20–40; the grilled shrimp plate at the seafood restaurants at EGP 80–150), the fiteer Iskandrani (the Alexandrian meat pie; the layers of flaky pastry filled with the spiced minced meat; different from the Cairo fiteer; the most specific Alexandrian street food), the Om Ali (the Egyptian bread pudding — the puff pastry soaked in warm cream and topped with the coconut and the nuts; EGP 20–40 from any Alexandria bakery; the most comforting Egyptian dessert), and the ahwa on the Corniche at 11pm (the Egyptian black coffee; the corner cafe; the sea spray from the waves; the most Alexandrian late night experience) define the food culture of the city.

Getting Around

The Alexandria tram (the oldest tram system in Africa; operating since 1863; EGP 3–5 per trip; the route 1 — the Raml Station to Victoria along the Corniche — is the most useful for tourists; the route 25 covers the central district; the yellow and blue wooden trams; the most atmospheric urban transport in Egypt; running approximately every 10–20 min from 6am to midnight) along the Corniche is the primary tourist transport for the seafront sights. Careem (EGP 20–80 for most city journeys; the Bibliotheca to the Qaitbay Citadel: EGP 20; the Citadel to the Corniche fish restaurants: EGP 15–25; the most practical for point-to-point transport and for the Serapeum and the Catacombs which are inland). Walking (the historic city centre between the Corniche, the Bibliotheca and the Tahrir Square is compact enough to cover on foot; 20–30 min between any two central Alexandria sights).

Travel Tips

Best Time to Visit Alexandria

Apr–Jun and Sep–Oct are the finest months (20–28°C; the Mediterranean calm; uncrowded). Jul–Aug is the Egyptian summer peak (packed beaches; accommodation prices up). Nov–Mar is the Mediterranean winter (cool; atmospheric; the rough sea on the Corniche; very cheap).

Two Days in Alexandria

Two days: the Bibliotheca, Qaitbay Citadel at sunset, the Catacombs of Kom el-Shoqafa, the Cavafy Museum, the tram along the Corniche, and lunch at Zephyrion in Abu Qir.

What Does Alexandria Cost?

Alexandria is the most affordable city in this Egypt guide after Dahab. The tram (EGP 3), the Cavafy Museum (EGP 30), and the Corniche fish (EGP 150–300 pp) give the essential Alexandria experience very cheaply. Per person per day.

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