Oman’s “Green Mountain”: terraced villages, roses and a cool plateau at 2,000m
⚠️ Travel advisory: check before you go
In September 2026 the US raised its advice to “reconsider travel” for this region because of tensions involving Iran. Flights and tourism are operating normally, but airspace closures and cancellations can happen at short notice, so keep plans flexible and travel insurance in place.
Latest official advice: UK FCDO · US State Department · Reviewed September 2026
The villages of Al Ayn, Al Aqr and Ash Shirayjah sit on the rim of Wadi al Ayn, with terraced fields stepping down the slopes. A walking path links them, passing falaj channels and small orchards.
Dress modestly in the villages and ask before photographing people.
Photo: Ketan Mehta, CC BY-SA 3.0
In spring, roses bloom on the terraces and families harvest them to make rose water, distilled in traditional clay ovens. Some farms welcome visitors during the season and sell bottles.
Rose season usually peaks around April.
Photo: Kathryn james, CC BY 2.0
Steps lead down from the plateau into this valley, where a ruined mud-brick village stands above walnut trees. It is a short but steep walk.
Wear proper shoes; paths are uneven.
Photo: albinfo, CC BY-SA 4.0
The plateau has several viewpoints over the gorges of Wadi al Ayn and the folded limestone of the Hajar, especially good at sunrise and sunset. Several hotels are built along the cliff edge.
Photo: Philipp Weigell, CC BY 3.0
At the foot of the mountain, Nizwa has a 17th-century fort with a huge round tower and a busy souq, best known for its Friday livestock market.
Go early on Friday for the livestock market.
Photo: Martin Falbisoner, CC BY-SA 4.0
Most visitors eat at their hotel or guesthouse. Omani dishes include shuwa (slow-cooked marinated meat, traditionally for Eid), rice with lamb or chicken (majboos), and dates with cardamom-scented kahwa coffee, a symbol of Omani hospitality.
Look out for local pomegranates in late summer, mountain honey and bottles of rose water from the village farms.
From Muscat, drive about two hours to Birkat al Mawz near Nizwa. About 6km beyond, a police checkpoint only allows four-wheel-drive vehicles up the mountain road; the climb to the plateau is about 32km and takes around 40 minutes.
There is no public transport. Hire a 4×4 in Muscat, or arrange a transfer or tour; some hotels offer pick-ups from Birkat al Mawz.
Oman uses the rial (OMR). Accommodation on the mountain ranges from guesthouses to luxury resorts.
A 4×4 is required; the cost dominates a budget trip.
Prices rise at weekends and during holidays.
Luxury resorts often include transfers.
Two days lets you hike the villages and see Nizwa.
Stop at Nizwa Fort and souq on the way, then drive up to the plateau for sunset at a gorge viewpoint.
Fill the tank before the checkpoint.
Walk the terrace path between Al Aqr, Al Ayn and Ash Shirayjah in the morning, then visit Wadi Bani Habib in the afternoon.
Bring water and a jacket; it can be windy.
The police checkpoint turns back other vehicles.
Winter nights can approach freezing.
Cover shoulders and knees, especially in villages.
Visit around April to see the harvest.
Quick answers for planning time in Jebel Akhdar.
Yes. A police checkpoint near Birkat al Mawz only lets four-wheel-drive vehicles continue up the mountain road.
The Saiq Plateau is about 2,000m; the range includes Jebel Shams, Oman’s highest peak at 3,018m.
Spring, typically peaking around April.
About 150km, roughly two and a half to three hours including the mountain road.
Yes; it is much cooler than Muscat and the lowlands.
Planning a wider trip? Our Oman travel guide covers getting there, costs, when to go and more.