LV
Cesis
Medieval Town and Latvia's Most Beautiful Castle
Medieval Town and Latvia's Most Beautiful Castle
Cēsis Castle (the old castle; 13th–16th century Livonian Order fortification; €8 with lantern; open 10am–6pm May–Sept; the most romantic castle ruin in Latvia — the visitor experience deliberately evokes the medieval with lanterns rather than electric lighting inside the roofless towers; the descent into the castle cellar by lantern light is the finest single heritage experience in Latvia) and the adjacent New Castle (18th-century Baroque manor; now the Cēsis Museum of History and Art; €8 combined ticket) form the most complete castle complex in Latvia.
💡 The Cēsis Castle lantern tour (the standard way to visit the old castle; a lantern is provided at the ticket office; visitors explore the roofless towers and catacombs by their own light in deliberate reference to the pre-electric medieval experience) is the finest heritage site experience in Latvia. Arrive just before closing (5pm) for the most atmospheric light inside the towers. The evening torch-lit tours (occasional summer evenings; schedule at cesupils.lv; €12–15; a guide in medieval costume; the castle by torchlight) are the finest event in Cēsis.
The Cēsis old town (the preserved medieval street plan; the main square of Vīna kalns; the St John’s Church — a 13th-century Gothic church with the finest medieval nave in Latvia; free; open daily; the original Livonian-era street grid still intact in the Cēsis historic centre) is the best-preserved medieval urban fabric in Latvia outside Riga. The Vīna kalns hill (the old vineyard hill above the town; free; the finest view of the castle ruins and the old town below; 5 minutes walk from the castle square) is the finest viewpoint in Cēsis.
💡 Walk the Cēsis old town circuit (from the castle square through the Rigna iela to St John’s Church to Vīna kalns hill; 1h; free; the complete medieval town experience) in the morning before the day visitors arrive (Cēsis receives significant day-trip traffic from Riga in summer; the town is most enjoyable before 10am and after 5pm). The Vīna kalns hill at dusk (the castle ruins illuminated against the darkening sky; the old town below) is the finest free evening in Latvia outside Riga.
The Cēsu Alus brewery (Aldaru iela 1; founded 1590; the oldest continuously operating brewery in Latvia; tours available; €10–15 including tasting; daily in summer; booking required via cesubrewery.lv) is the most significant craft beer heritage site in Latvia. Cēsu Alus (the most popular Latvian craft beer brand; available throughout Latvia; the Cēsis-brewed originals are only available locally) has been brewing on the same site for over 430 years through Swedish, Russian, German, Soviet, and independent Latvian ownership.
💡 Book the brewery tour in advance (cesubrewery.lv; tours 11am and 3pm daily in summer; €12 including three beer tastings and the full brewery history). The tasting room (adjacent to the brewery; open daily 10am–6pm; the full Cēsu Alus range including seasonal and limited editions not distributed outside Cēsis; €3–5 per glass) is available without a tour booking.
The Gauja National Park section around Cēsis (the Gauja River valley; sandstone cliffs to 30m; the Amāta River tributary; the finest stretches of the Gauja for canoeing; the forest trail network connecting Cēsis to Sigulda) is accessible directly from the town. The Cēsis to Sigulda canoe route (30km; 1–2 days; paddle rental from Cēsis outdoor operators from €20–40/day; the most popular canoe route in Latvia) descends the Gauja through castle ruins, sandstone cliffs, and medieval landscape throughout.
💡 The easiest Gauja access from Cēsis: the Cēsis Castle Hill to the Gauja riverbank (5 minutes walk through the castle park; the river is accessible year-round; fishing, swimming in summer, canoeing). For a guided half-day canoe experience from Cēsis (3–4h; to Sigulda; €25–35; multiple operators; book through the Cēsis tourist information at Līvānu iela 4).
Cēsis has an excellent small-town food scene anchored by the brewery. The Cēsu Alus brewery tasting room (Aldaru iela; the full beer range; seasonal brews unavailable elsewhere; €3–5 per glass; open daily in summer) is the essential first stop. Cake & Bake (Vīna kalns; the finest cafe in Cēsis; homemade Latvian cakes, pies, and coffee; €4–8; the best terrace in town overlooking the castle ruins) is the mandatory morning or afternoon cafe. Pils Krogus (the castle tavern; adjacent to the castle entrance; traditional Latvian food; €10–20 for a full meal; the rye bread with smoked butter and smoked fish is the Cēsis speciality) is the most atmospheric lunch option. Restaurant Kolonna (the finest dinner restaurant in Cēsis; seasonal Latvian menu; €20–35) completes the evening.
10am: bus from Riga (1h 30m) or from Sigulda (30m). Cēsis old town walk (St John’s Church; medieval street grid; 45 mins; free). Cake & Bake terrace coffee (€5). Cēsu Alus brewery tour (11am or 3pm; book ahead; €12; 1.5h including tasting). Pils Krogus lunch (castle tavern; rye bread and smoked fish; €12–18). 4:30pm: Cēsis Castle lantern tour (€8; arrive at 4pm for sunset tower light; 1.5h). Vina kalns hill at sunset (free; 5 mins from the castle; brewery beer in hand; the finest sunset viewpoint in Latvia outside Riga). Dinner at Kolonna (€20–30). Evening bus to Riga or overnight stay.
Staying overnight in Cēsis (the castle at dusk; the lantern tour; the old town brewery evening; Hotel Cēsis from €70) makes more sense than a Riga day trip. Book a weeknight for the quietest experience.
The Cēsis Castle lantern tour (a lantern given at the ticket office; the visitor navigates the medieval interior by hand-held flame; €8; open daily 10am–6pm) is the finest heritage experience in Latvia.
The Cēsu Alus brewery tour (€12 including tasting; cesubrewery.lv; the 430-year continuous brewing history; the copper tanks; the unfiltered lager from the tank) is the finest brewery experience in the Baltics.
Bus from Riga to Cēsis (1h 30m; €4–7; Nordeka or Ecolines; from Riga International Bus Station; 5 buses daily).
The Cēsis to Sigulda Gauja canoe route (30km; 1–2 days; canoe from Cēsis rental operators; the sandstone canyon sections in the middle) is Latvia’s finest river journey. Book the canoe the day before.
Vīna kalns (the vineyard hill; free; 5 minutes’ walk through the castle park; the view of the Old Castle tower and the Gauja valley below) is finest at sunset in summer. No signpost — follow the castle park path.
Download Cēsis offline for the old town circuit, Vina kalns, and Gauja valley trails.
Free
Best trail map for the Gauja National Park canoeing and hiking routes around Cēsis.
Free
Taxis in Cēsis and between Sigulda and Cēsis for the combined valley day.
Free
Art Nouveau Riga, Baltic beach Jūrmala, medieval castle towns, and Latvia’s extraordinary cultural depth.