
Monkeys, Beaches & Costa Rica's Finest National Park

Manuel Antonio National Park (7km south of Querépos; USD 20/person; open Wed–Mon 7am–4pm; the most visited national park in Costa Rica; the four beaches (Playa Espadilla Sur — the finest white-sand beach inside any Costa Rica park; Playa Manuel Antonio — the swimming beach with the clearest water; Playa Biesanz — the snorkelling beach; and Playa Escondida — the hidden beach accessible only at low tide); the 3 monkey species (white-faced capuchin; howler; squirrel monkey — the rarest and most delightful; the squirrel monkeys are tiny, hyperactive, and sometimes land on visitor’s shoulders looking for fruit); the 2-toed sloth hanging from the cecropia trees above the main trail entrance; the raccoons washing their food on the beach; the basilisk lizard (the Jesus Christ lizard — runs on water); the pelicans dive-bombing offshore) is the finest single national park experience in Costa Rica for the combination of wildlife and beach.
💡 Enter Manuel Antonio National Park at 7am opening (the wildlife is most active in the first 2 hours; the monkey troops are feeding; the sloths are most visible in the morning cecropia trees; the park crowds build to uncomfortable levels after 10am in peak season; arrive by 7am and you will have the trails essentially to yourself for the first 90 minutes; wear shoes you can swim in — the main access to Playa Manuel Antonio crosses a tidal lagoon that is knee-deep at high tide and passable without getting wet at low tide; check the tide chart).

The white-faced capuchin monkey (Cebus imitator; the most intelligent and most observed of the three Manuel Antonio monkey species; the black-and-white head; the tool-using cognitive ability comparable to great apes; the troops numbering 15–30 individuals; the alpha male leading the group across the trail at head height; the females with infants on their backs; the juveniles playing in the guava trees; the capuchins are habituated to human presence in Manuel Antonio and approach to within 1–2m at fruit-bearing trees; the most photographically accessible wild monkey in Central America) and the howler monkey (the 6am roar — a sound like a distant lion heard 1km away; actually produced by a monkey the size of a domestic cat; the territorial morning call heard from every hotel in Manuel Antonio; the most distinctive morning wildlife experience in Costa Rica) are the two essential wildlife encounters in Manuel Antonio.
💡 Rule 1 at Manuel Antonio: do not feed the monkeys (the capuchins are notorious food thieves and approach closely to any food source; feeding makes them aggressive toward other visitors; USD 100 fine if caught; close your bag and do not eat on the trail). The squirrel monkey (the tiny orange-and-grey monkey; the rarest; groups of 20–40 moving rapidly through the lower canopy; the crowd favourite of the three Manuel Antonio monkey species; best seen on the Sendero Miradores lookout trail above Playa Espadilla Sur from 8–10am) is the highlight for most wildlife photographers.

Playa Biesanz (the hidden cove within Manuel Antonio National Park; accessible only by a short trail from the main Playa Manuel Antonio; the clearest water in the park; coral and fish visible without diving equipment; the sea turtle resting area; the rocky headland providing shelter from Pacific swell; the fewest visitors of any Manuel Antonio beach; the finest snorkelling in Central America accessible to non-divers) is the secret best beach at Manuel Antonio and the most rewarding 2-hour beach stop in the park.
💡 Walk past Playa Manuel Antonio (the main swimming beach; busy from 9am onward) and continue on the rocky trail to Playa Biesanz (15-minute walk; the trail visible at the eastern end of Playa Manuel Antonio; the snorkel equipment from any Querépos rental shop USD 8/day; the coral visible from the surface in 1–3m of water; the parrotfish, the surgeonfish, and the occasional sea turtle). Go before 9am for the clearest water (the early morning Pacific Pacific calm; the tide at its most transparent) and the fewest other snorkellers.

The Rainmaker Conservation Project (18km north of Querépos; USD 25; the private rainforest reserve with 6 suspension bridges at 30–50m height; the private river gorge with 6 waterfall pools accessible by swimming through the canyon; the finest canopy walk accessible from Manuel Antonio; 150+ bird species including the scarlet macaw; the Rainmaker trail has the finest macaw viewing in the Manuel Antonio region as the birds fly along the river corridor at dawn and dusk) is the finest half-day excursion from Manuel Antonio and the best complement to the National Park visit.
💡 The Rainmaker waterfall swimming circuit (the gorge trail; the 6 waterfall pools accessible by swimming between them through canyon slots; the most exhilarating outdoor experience near Manuel Antonio; bring water shoes; the trail is wet throughout; the water temperature 20–24°C; the scarlet macaws frequent the river corridor — arrive by 7:30am for the morning macaw flyover; 3h for the full circuit) combines canopy bridge views with a genuine swimming-through-the-canyon adventure.
Querépos and the Manuel Antonio road have an excellent food scene. El Avion (the finest restaurant in the area; a decommissioned 1950s US Air Force cargo plane converted into a restaurant on the hillside above the ocean; USD 18–35; the view from the plane fuselage; the ceviche and the fresh Pacific fish; the most atmospheric restaurant in Manuel Antonio), La Cantina (the beach bar on Playa Espadilla Norte; the coldest Imperial beer in Costa Rica; the ceviche; USD 8–15; the post-park afternoon drink), and the Querépos covered market (the freshest ceviche and empanadas; the most affordable lunch in the region; CRC 2,000–4,000) are the three essential food experiences. The “mariscos” (fresh Pacific seafood — the ceviche, the grilled mahi-mahi, and the whole fried fish) are the definitive Manuel Antonio food and available at every restaurant within 5km of the park.
The park opens at 7am. Capuchin troops feed in the fruit trees at the entrance and sloths are on the first trail. By 10am the park is busy. Wednesday is the quietest day of the week.
Licensed guides at the park entrance (USD 20–25; 2 hours; book or self-select at the gate) find camouflaged sloths, roosting parrots, and poison dart frogs invisible to unguided visitors.
Querépos whale watching (August–October; the humpback whale migration; the boat tours from Querépos marina; USD 80–120 per person; 3–4h).
The Manuel Antonio capuchins are bold and will take food from open bags. Feeding is illegal and creates dangerous behaviour. Keep all food sealed and bags closed at all times in the park.
Playa Espadilla Norte (the long Pacific beach north of the park entrance; always free; lifeguards on weekends) is the finest beach near Manuel Antonio. The park’s own beaches require paid entry.
The San José to Manuel Antonio shared shuttle (USD 25; 3 hours; Interbus or Gecko; book online) departs 6:30am from most San José hotels. The most comfortable direct route available.
7am: park entrance (USD 20; hire guide USD 22; 2h wildlife trail). Squirrel monkeys + capuchins + sloth + poison dart frog (with guide scope). 9am: Playa Manuel Antonio swimming. 10am: Playa Biesanz snorkel (USD 8 mask + fins; the coral and fish; 1.5h). 12pm: park exit. La Cantina lunch (ceviche USD 12; Imperial beer). Rest at hotel. 7pm: El Avion dinner (USD 25–35; the converted aircraft; reserve ahead).
7:30am: taxi to Rainmaker (USD 15; USD 25 entry; canopy bridges + waterfall pool swimming; the macaws at dawn; 3h). Return 11am. Lunch at Querépos market (CRC 3,500). 2pm: surf lesson on Playa Espadilla Norte (USD 50; 2h; board rental; beginner waves). Cocktail sunset at La Cantina. Shuttle booked to next destination.
Download the Manuel Antonio wildlife guide. Identify the three monkey species, the two-toed sloth, the white nosed coati, and the poison dart frogs.
Free
Manuel Antonio bird checklist. The scarlet macaw, the fiery-billed aracari, and the boat-billed heron are the three most sought-after species.
Free
Download Manuel Antonio offline. The park entrance road and Quepos town navigation.
Free
CRC/USD. ATMs in Quepos. The park entrance and all tour operators accept USD cash or card.
Free
Arenal volcano and hot springs, Monteverde cloud forest canopy walks, Manuel Antonio’s monkeys and beaches, Tortuguero’s sea turtle canals, and the Caribbean coast of Puerto Viejo.