
Hilltop palaces, tumbling stairways and Madagascar's beating heart

Crowning the highest hill, the Queen’s Palace was the seat of the Merina monarchy. Restored after a fire, the stone compound offers sweeping views over the whole city and highlands.
💡 Go on a clear morning for the sharpest panoramas across the hills.

The old upper town is Tana at its most atmospheric, a maze of steep staircases, pastel houses and the twin-spired Andohalo cathedral, best explored slowly on foot.
💡 Hire a local guide to navigate the stairways and share the history.

Spilling along the Avenue de l’Independance, this is the city’s commercial heart, where vendors sell everything from vanilla and spices to embroidery, raffia and street snacks.
💡 Watch your bag in the crowds and agree prices before buying.

A heart-shaped lake ringed by jacaranda trees in the city centre, with a war memorial on a central island, prettiest when the trees bloom purple in spring.
💡 Best enjoyed on a walk in daylight rather than after dark.

A short drive from the centre, this private reserve lets you meet nine species of free-ranging lemurs among endemic plants, a gentle first encounter with Madagascar’s famous wildlife.
💡 Book a half-day trip; morning visits are liveliest for the lemurs.
Malagasy cooking centres on rice with side dishes of zebu beef, chicken or beans in rich sauces, often brightened with the fiery relish sakay. Tana also keeps a strong French streak, so you will find good bakeries, patisseries and bistros alongside street stalls grilling brochettes. Try romazava, the national beef-and-greens stew, and wash it down with local THB beer or fresh tropical juice.
Climb through the Haute-Ville staircases to the Rova palace for city views, visit Andafiavaratra Palace, and end at a hilltop terrace for sunset.
Explore Analakely market and the Avenue de l’Independance, stroll Lake Anosy, and browse craft shops for vanilla, silk and raffia.
Take a half-day trip to Lemurs Park or the crocodile farm, then relax over a long French-Malagasy lunch before onward travel.
Cards are rarely accepted outside top hotels; withdraw ariary and keep small notes for markets and taxis.
Tana is the hub for all domestic travel; distances by road are slow, so build in extra time between regions.
The old town is a joy to walk but watch your belongings in crowds and avoid quiet streets after dark.
Madagascar produces the world’s finest vanilla; Tana’s markets are a good, well-priced place to stock up.
Offline maps of Antananarivo and rural Madagascar for when there is no signal.
Free
Download French offline to bridge the language gap in shops and restaurants.
Free
Hillside-capital Antananarivo, beach-fringed Nosy Be, the rainforest of Andasibe, the baobab avenue at Morondava and the canyons of Isalo — Madagascar at its most varied.