MD
Chișinău
Leafy boulevards, Soviet modernism and the world’s largest wine cellars nearby
Leafy boulevards, Soviet modernism and the world’s largest wine cellars nearby
The Metropolitan Cathedral of Christ’s Nativity was completed in 1836 and is the city’s main Orthodox church. Its freestanding bell tower was demolished in the Soviet period and rebuilt in 1997. Facing it, the Triumphal Arch was completed in 1840 and marks the symbolic centre of the city, beside the Government House.
The cathedral park is busiest and most atmospheric on summer evenings.
Photo: Pudelek, CC BY-SA 4.0
The oldest park in the city sits on the main boulevard. At its entrance stands the 1927 statue of Stephen the Great, Moldavia’s 15th-century ruler, by sculptor Alexandru Plămădeală; inside is an avenue of busts of Romanian-language writers and a monument to Pushkin, who lived in exile in Chișinău in the 1820s.
Walk on to Valea Morilor Park, with its lake and cascade of steps, for a longer stroll.
Photo: Tomasz Bladyniec, CC BY 4.0
Chișinău was largely rebuilt after 1944, and its late-Soviet buildings are a highlight for architecture fans: the towering Hotel Cosmos near the railway station, the “Gates of the City” apartment towers on the airport road, the circus building and the many mosaics on public buildings.
The Gates of the City are best seen on the way in from the airport.
Photo: marktristan, CC BY-SA 2.0
Moldova’s old limestone quarries were turned into wine cellars in the 1950s. Cricova, 15km north of the city, has about 120km of underground roads, visited by electric train or car. Mileștii Mici, south of the city, is even bigger at around 200km and holds a Guinness record for the world’s largest wine collection.
Both are visited on guided tours with tastings; book ahead and bring a jacket, as the cellars stay about 12°C.
Photo: Kolmkolm, CC BY-SA 4.0
About 60km north-east of Chișinău, the Răut River loops through a limestone gorge dotted with archaeological remains and cave cells cut by monks. A small Orthodox cave monastery is still in use, and the nearby villages of Butuceni and Trebujeni have guesthouses serving home-cooked Moldovan food.
Dress modestly for the cave church; women are asked to cover their heads.
Photo: Bertramz, CC BY-SA 3.0
Moldovan food is hearty and home-style. Try mămăligă (maize porridge) with sheep’s cheese and sour cream, sarmale (stuffed cabbage or vine leaves), zeamă (chicken soup) and plăcinte, flaky pastries filled with cheese, cabbage or pumpkin.
Wine is the national pride: Chișinău has a growing number of wine bars pouring local reds and whites at modest prices, and the National Wine Day festival is held in the city on the first weekend of October.
Chișinău Eugen Doga International Airport is about 13km south-east of the centre, with flights to many European cities; minibuses (rutieră), trolleybus and taxis link it with the centre. Trains run from Chișinău to Iași and Bucharest in Romania.
Long-distance buses and minibuses connect the city with Romania, Ukraine and towns across Moldova. Within the city, trolleybuses are cheap and cover the centre well. Cricova, Mileștii Mici and Orheiul Vechi are most easily reached by tour, taxi or a hired driver.
Moldova uses the Moldovan leu (MDL). Chișinău is one of Europe’s cheapest capitals; card payment is widely accepted in the centre.
Walking the centre and parks is free.
Cellar tours vary widely in price depending on the tasting.
Wineries such as Castel Mimi and Purcari also offer stays.
Two days covers the city and its best day trip.
Morning at the cathedral, Triumphal Arch and Ștefan cel Mare Park, then the Central Market and a walk along the main boulevard. Afternoon tour of Cricova or Mileștii Mici, and dinner with Moldovan wine in the centre.
Book the cellar tour in advance, especially at weekends.
Day trip to the Răut gorge: climb to the cave monastery, walk the ridge for views of the river bend, and have lunch at a guesthouse in Butuceni before heading back.
Wear good shoes; the paths are uneven limestone.
Cellar tours run on fixed schedules and need booking; most visitors go by tour or taxi.
Trolleybuses cover the centre for a few lei; pay the conductor or by card where available.
Cards work in the centre, but markets, minibuses and villages often want cash.
Winters are cold and the wine cellars stay around 12°C all year.
Quick answers for planning time in Chișinău.
Yes, for a relaxed, inexpensive city break with interesting Soviet architecture, a good wine-bar scene and easy trips to famous wine cellars and the Orheiul Vechi cave monastery.
Two days is enough: one for the city and a wine cellar, one for Orheiul Vechi. Add a day for a winery or Soroca.
Cricova is about 15km north of the city centre, around 30 minutes by car.
Chișinău Eugen Doga International Airport is about 13km from the centre, linked by minibus, trolleybus and taxis.
May–June and September–October are warm and pleasant; early October brings the National Wine Day festival.
Planning a wider trip? Our Moldova travel guide covers getting there, costs, when to go and more.