Serengeti

The Great Migration — the Mara River Crossing

The Mara River crossing (the moment when the wildebeest herds plunge into the Mara River to cross to Kenya and back; July–October; the northern Serengeti/Kogatende camps; the most dramatic single wildlife event on earth; the crocodiles waiting in the river; the wildebeest hesitating for hours at the bank before a single animal leaps in and the herd follows; the dust and the roar of the herd; the crocodile attacks; the survivors crossing; the dead at the bank) is the most extraordinary natural spectacle available to any wildlife traveller and the defining experience of the Serengeti.

Book the northern Serengeti camps for July–October specifically (Kogatende; the Migration camps; USD 600–1,500/night all-inclusive; the camp is at the Mara River; the game drives include the riverbank wait for a crossing; on average 3–4 crossings per week in peak season; the camp guide notifies guests when a crossing appears imminent; no crossing is guaranteed but the probability in August–September from a riverside camp is 70–80% per 3-day stay).

The Big Cats — Lions, Leopards, and Cheetahs

The Serengeti Central (Seronera; the year-round zone; the permanent water and kopjes — the granite rock outcroppings; the densest lion and leopard population in Africa) is the finest big cat destination on earth. The Seronera kopjes (the granite kopje clusters; the permanent lion prides that use the rocks as hunting platforms and resting sites; the leopards in the sausage trees above the rivers; often 5–8 lion sightings per game drive in peak season) are the most reliably spectacular wildlife area in the Serengeti. The cheetah (the southern Serengeti open plains; fastest land animal; the morning hunts; the acceleration to 120km/h; visible daily in the open grass) is the most reliably seen in the south.

Game drives depart the Serengeti camps at 6:30am (the golden-hour light on the savanna; the cats most active in the first 2 hours of daylight; the cheetah on the mounds scanning for prey; the lions returning from the night hunt; the leopard still visible in the trees before retreating to midday shade). Evening game drives (4pm; the predators active again as the heat drops; the golden light 5–7pm; the finest photography light; the lion hunt most likely in the last hour of light) are the second most productive.

Photo: shankar s. from Dubai, united arab emirates, CC BY 2.0

The Big Five — Elephant, Buffalo, and Black Rhino

The Serengeti Big Five: lion (the most commonly seen; the Seronera kopjes; multiple prides; daily sightings), leopard (the Seronera and Lobo rivers; less reliably seen; the early morning sausage tree scan), elephant (the Seronera river zone; the large herds; daily sightings), buffalo (the southern and central Serengeti; the massive mixed-age herds; reliable), and black rhino (the rarest; the Moru Kopjes in the south-central Serengeti; the only significant black rhino population in the Serengeti; approximately 60 individuals; not guaranteed but possible in a 3–4 day south Serengeti safari) make the Serengeti the finest single Big Five destination in Africa.

A 4-day Serengeti safari covering the central (Seronera; lions, leopards, elephants), southern (cheetahs; wildebeest calving in January–February), and Moru Kopjes (black rhino; historical San rock paintings on the kopje surface; the “Black Rocks” rhino viewing area) provides the most comprehensive Big Five coverage. Book with a licensed Arusha operator (Shadows of Africa; Wild Frontiers; Roy Safaris; Dorobo Safaris) rather than the cheapest operator available.

Photo: Erasmus Kamugisha, CC BY-SA 4.0

Hot Air Balloon Safari — the Serengeti at Dawn

The Serengeti hot air balloon safari (the most spectacular optional activity in Africa; departing at dawn from the Seronera balloon launch site; USD 500–550 per person; 1h flight over the Serengeti plains; the heat of the balloon at 5:30am in the dark; the ascent into the first light; the herds visible below; the elephants, giraffes, and wildebeest from bird perspective; the shadow of the balloon on the grass; the champagne breakfast on a bush table at landing; the most extraordinary 2 hours available in Tanzania) is the single most extraordinary optional experience in Tanzania for any visitor whose budget allows.

Book the balloon safari through your Serengeti camp (the camp operator arranges bookings through Serengeti Balloon Safaris — the sole operator; USD 500–550 all-inclusive; pre-payment required; departs 5:30am in the dark; 1h flight; champagne breakfast at landing; return to camp 9am; add a morning game drive after for the most extraordinary full day in the Serengeti). Book as soon as you confirm your safari dates — the balloon fills months in advance in peak season.

Photo: Harvey Barrison from Massapequa, NY, USA, CC BY-SA 2.0