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Puerto Viejo
Afro-Caribbean culture, jungle beaches and big surf on Costa Rica’s south Caribbean coast
Afro-Caribbean culture, jungle beaches and big surf on Costa Rica’s south Caribbean coast
The compact town centre has a strip of small hotels, sodas (simple local restaurants), bars and surf shops along the shore. Just offshore, the reef break of Salsa Brava produces a heavy, fast wave best left to experienced surfers; beginners head to the softer beach breaks of Playa Cocles.
Watch the surfers from the beach bars at the point.
Photo: Ben Kucinski, CC BY 2.0
South of town, a coastal road passes a chain of beaches: Playa Cocles for surfing, Playa Chiquita with its small coves, and Punta Uva, a sheltered palm-fringed bay that is often the calmest place to swim. Most people cycle between them.
Rip currents are common at Cocles; swim near lifeguards or at Punta Uva.
Photo: Jaimedelamata, CC BY-SA 3.0
Just north along the coast, Cahuita National Park protects a stretch of beach, coastal forest and one of the country’s few Caribbean coral reefs. A flat trail follows the shore, where sloths, howler and capuchin monkeys and raccoons are common sightings. Snorkelling on the reef is only allowed with a licensed guide.
Enter at the Cahuita village end and walk the coastal trail in the morning.
Photo: Pavel Kirillov, CC BY-SA 2.0
At the end of the coastal road, the village of Manzanillo sits on the edge of the Gandoca-Manzanillo Wildlife Refuge, which covers rainforest, swamps, beaches and reefs running towards the Panama border. Trails lead to quiet coves and viewpoints, and local operators run kayaking and snorkelling trips.
Hire a local guide for the trails; they are muddy and easy to lose.
Photo: Manuel Velazquez, CC BY 3.0
This wildlife rescue and rehabilitation centre just south of town cares for injured and orphaned animals such as sloths, monkeys, birds and reptiles, releasing them back into the wild where possible. Guided visits explain its work.
Visits are by guided tour at set times; check the schedule before you go.
Photo: Wawewo, CC BY-SA 4.0
The Caribbean coast has its own cooking. Try rice and beans cooked in coconut milk with Caribbean-style chicken, rondón (a coconut seafood stew), patí (spicy meat pastries) and fresh fruit from roadside stalls.
Puerto Viejo also has a wide range of international restaurants, bakeries and juice bars thanks to its many foreign residents, and chocolate tours visit small cacao farms in the area.
Transportes MEPE buses run several times a day from San José’s Terminal Atlántico Norte to Puerto Viejo, taking about 4.5 hours with a stop in Limón; tickets are sold at the terminal. Private and shared shuttles from San José and the airport also serve the town.
Puerto Viejo is the closest base for the Sixaola–Guabito border with Panama, about 49km away, and shuttles continue to Bocas del Toro. Locally, bicycles are the easiest way to reach the beaches; local buses run along the coast road to Manzanillo.
Costa Rica uses the colón (CRC), and US dollars are widely accepted. Costa Rica is one of Central America’s pricier countries, though Puerto Viejo has good budget options.
A casado (set lunch) at a soda is the best-value meal.
Rooms closer to Cocles and Punta Uva cost more.
Book ahead for Christmas, Easter and July.
Three days covers the town, the beaches and both protected areas.
Rent a bike, explore town, then ride south past Playa Cocles and Playa Chiquita to swim at Punta Uva. Back in town for sunset and Caribbean dinner.
Use a bike light after dark; the road is unlit in places.
Bus or drive to Cahuita and walk the coastal trail looking for sloths and monkeys, with a guided snorkel on the reef if the sea is calm.
Bring water and insect repellent.
Visit the Jaguar Rescue Center in the morning, then continue to Manzanillo for a guided walk in the refuge or a kayak trip.
Check the last bus back from Manzanillo.
Bicycles are the local transport; most hotels rent or lend them.
Strong rips are common on the open beaches; ask locally where it is safe to swim.
Showers can come in any month, so pack a light rain jacket.
Do not leave belongings unattended on the beach or bikes unlocked.
Quick answers for planning time in Puerto Viejo.
By Transportes MEPE bus from Terminal Atlántico Norte (about 4.5 hours), or by private or shared shuttle.
Yes. Salsa Brava is a powerful reef wave for experienced surfers, while Playa Cocles has beach breaks and surf schools for beginners.
Punta Uva is usually the calmest and best for swimming; Playa Cocles is best for surfing.
Cahuita and its national park are a short drive or bus ride north along the coast.
It rains all year, but February to April and September to October usually bring the calmest, sunniest weather.
Planning a wider trip? Our Costa Rica travel guide covers getting there, costs, when to go and more.