A graceful colonial city of blue-domed churches, flower markets and riverside walks in Ecuador’s southern Andes
The vast Catedral de la Inmaculada Concepción, with its sky-blue tiled domes, overlooks Parque Calderón. You can climb to the roof for views.
Photo: Alex Proimos, CC BY 2.0
The main square, shaded by tall trees, faces both the new and old cathedrals and is close to the colourful flower market.
Photo: Johannes Wagenknecht, CC BY-SA 4.0
Riverside paths below the old town’s cliff-top houses (El Barranco) are good for walking, and lead to the Pumapungo museum with its Inca ruins.
Photo: Martín Vasco, CC BY-SA 4.0
A high-altitude park of grassland and hundreds of lakes about 30km west of the city, reaching above 4,000m, with marked hiking trails.
Weather changes fast; bring warm, waterproof layers.
Photo: Ekem, CC BY-SA 3.0
Try mote pillo (hominy with eggs), roast pork hornado, and, if you are adventurous, cuy (guinea pig), a traditional Andean dish.
The Mercado 10 de Agosto has cheap lunches and fresh juices.
Cuenca has a small airport with flights to Quito. Buses from Guayaquil take about four hours, crossing El Cajas. The centre is walkable, and a tram line crosses the city.
Citizens of the US, UK, EU, Canada, Australia and many other countries can visit Ecuador visa-free for up to 90 days. The currency is the US dollar. The US State Department rates Ecuador Level 2 (exercise increased caution), with “do not travel” advice for parts of Guayaquil, Durán, Esmeraldas and some other areas; Quito, Cuenca and Galápagos are not among them. Check current rules and advice before you travel.
Cuenca is one of the best-value cities in South America. Prices are in US dollars.
Old town and mountains.
See Parque Calderón and the cathedrals, the flower market, a Panama hat workshop and museum, and walk along the Tomebamba to Pumapungo.
Spend a day hiking in El Cajas National Park, then return for dinner in the old town.
Visit a hat factory or museum to see how toquilla straw hats are woven; weaving them is on UNESCO’s intangible heritage list.
At about 2,560m, take it easy on arrival.
Afternoon showers are common; carry a light jacket.
Cuenca is calmer than Ecuador’s coastal cities, but take normal precautions at night.
Quick answers for planning time in Cuenca.
The US dollar. Bring small notes, as change for large bills can be hard to find.
Yes, the toquilla straw hat comes from Ecuador; Cuenca is a major centre of production.
Yes, its historic centre was listed in 1999.
About 2,560m above sea level.
About 30km, or 45 minutes by road.
Google Maps works in cities; download offline maps for rural areas.
Free
Spanish is the main language; English is limited outside tourist businesses.
Free
Planning a wider trip? Our Ecuador travel guide covers getting there, costs, when to go and more.