
Fire, ice & northern lights
The aurora borealis is visible from Iceland between September and March on clear, dark nights away from Reykjavik’s light pollution. The app Aurora Forecast (veðurstofa.is) gives real-time activity predictions.
Three sites within 300km of Reykjavik: Geysir (the geyser that gave all geysers their name, erupting every 5-8 minutes), Gullfoss waterfall (two-tiered, 32m drop) and Thingvellir (where Viking parliament met from 930 AD, and where you can see the rift between two tectonic plates).
A glacial lagoon of floating blue icebergs calved from the Vatnajokull glacier, with a black sand beach (Diamond Beach) where glacier ice washes ashore.
A beach of jet-black volcanic sand with hexagonal basalt columns (Reynisdrangar) rising from the sea. Dangerous sneaker waves – stay back from the water.

A highland valley of multicoloured rhyolite mountains with a geothermal hot spring for bathing after hiking. Accessible only by 4WD (June-September).
The Snaefellsjokull glacier-volcano (Jules Verne’s Journey to the Centre of the Earth), Kirkjufell mountain (the most photographed in Iceland) and a Peninsula of lava fields and coastal bird colonies.
A geothermal spa of milky blue mineral-rich water at 38-40C, surrounded by lava fields. The definitive Icelandic experience; book months ahead in summer.
Europe’s largest national park and largest glacier outside the poles: natural ice caves (accessible November-March with a guide) of pure blue glacial ice.
A cultured dairy product with the texture of thick Greek yoghurt but lower fat. Eaten for breakfast with berries. Iceland’s most exported food product.
Icelandic lamb graze on wild Arctic herbs all summer and are slaughtered in autumn: the most flavourful lamb meat in the world, roasted with potatoes and red cabbage.
A fish stew of poached cod or haddock with potato, onion and bechamel: Iceland’s traditional working meal, eaten at home since the settlement age.
Icelandic langoustine from the Jokla River estuary are among the finest in the world: split and grilled with butter and garlic, served at the Humarhusid restaurant in Reykjavik.
A caraway-spiced aquavit called “The Black Death”: Iceland’s national spirit, drunk in shots, traditionally paired with fermented shark (hakarl).
A lamb-pork hot dog with raw onion, crispy onion, remoulade and mustard from a Baejarin Beztu stand in Reykjavik. Bill Clinton ordered one here in 1994.
Icelanders are among the world’s highest per-capita coffee consumers. Reykjavik has a serious specialty coffee scene.
Greenland shark fermented underground for months. Smells intensely of ammonia. Eaten in a single bite with brennevin as a chaser. A cultural experience rather than a culinary one.
Reykjavík Keflavik International (KEF) is Iceland’s only international airport, 45km southwest of Reykjavík. Icelandair and Play are the main carriers. A rental car is essential for exploring beyond the capital. For trip planning, see the Visit Iceland tourism portal.
💡 Play is Iceland’s budget carrier — Gatwick to Reykjavík from £49 booked ahead. Icelandair allows a free stopover in Iceland for transatlantic travellers routing via Reykjavík — a genuine bonus.
💡 Iceland is one of the closest European destinations from the US East Coast — JFK to Reykjavík in under 6 hours. Icelandair’s free Iceland stopover is worth using on transatlantic routings.
💡 A rental car is essential for the Ring Road and any travel beyond Reykjavík. F-roads (highland interior tracks) require a proper 4WD. Check road.is for real-time road conditions.
💡 The Fly Bus from Keflavik to Reykjavík runs every 30–45 minutes and connects to the BSI bus terminal, from where local buses reach most hotels. Book at flybus.is.
Summer (June–August) offers Midnight Sun, green landscapes, highland access and puffin season. September–October brings the first Northern Lights and dramatic autumn light. Winter (November–March) is for Aurora hunting and snow-covered landscapes but with very short daylight. The Ring Road is passable year-round on its main sections.
Iceland is among the most expensive countries in the world — comparable to Norway and Switzerland. The weak ISK in recent years has made it somewhat more accessible, but costs remain high.
The Icelandic hot dog (pylsa) from a Bæjarins Beztu Pylsur cart in Reykjavík (ISK 600, ≈€4) is the national street food — a lamb/pork sausage with remoulade, crispy onion and raw onion. Every Icelander eats them.
A bowl of lamb soup (kjötsupa) with bread at a traditional Icelandic restaurant costs ISK 2,000–3,500 (€14–24). It is also one of the best things to eat in the country — thick, warming, local.
Dill (one Michelin star, Reykjavík) is the benchmark for New Nordic Icelandic cuisine — a tasting menu of local lamb, Arctic char and skyr at ISK 20,000pp (€136). Exceptional.
The Ring Road (Route 1) circles the entire island in 1,332km. This seven-day plan covers the Golden Circle, the South Coast and the Snæfellsnes Peninsula — the three essential Iceland experiences.
Reykjavík is small, walkable and striking — the Hallgrímskirkja church (73m concrete spire, free to enter, paid elevator to the top), the Harpa Concert Hall on the harbour (designed by Olafur Eliasson — geometric glass facade), the colourful corrugated-iron houses of the old centre.
💡 The Blue Lagoon geothermal spa (45 min from Reykjavík) requires advance booking — it sells out days ahead in summer. The Sky Lagoon, closer to the city, is less crowded and similarly excellent.
The Golden Circle: Thingvellir National Park (where the North American and Eurasian tectonic plates are visibly pulling apart — you can walk between the continents), the Geysir hot spring area (Strokkur erupts every 5–10 minutes, 20–40m), Gulfoss waterfall (two-tiered, 32m, the spray visible from 1km).
💡 Strokkur geyser erupts so reliably that you can set a timer. Stand upwind of the vent (the cloud of steam goes where the wind goes). The eruption itself lasts about 2 seconds.
Seljalandsfoss waterfall (you can walk behind the curtain — bring waterproof trousers), Skógafoss (a 60m double waterfall, a 30-minute hike gives a view from above), Reynisfjara black sand beach (the basalt columns and the offshore Reynisdrangar sea stacks).
💡 Reynisfjara’s waves are rogue — the beach shelves steeply and waves regularly reach further than expected. Stay behind the safety line. Several people have drowned here.
Vatnajökull is the largest glacier in Europe (8,100 sq km). Jökulsárlón glacier lagoon: icebergs calving from the glacier tongue float through to the sea. Diamond Beach: the icebergs wash up on the black sand. A glacier walk on Vatnajökull with crampons and a guide.
💡 Jökulsárlón at sunset — the icebergs lit from below, the glacier in the background — is one of the great photographic experiences in Iceland. Both sunrise and sunset are extraordinary.
The East Fjords are Iceland’s least-visited region — a series of deep glacial inlets with tiny fishing villages at their heads. Seyðisfjörður (an 18th-century painted wooden village in the deepest fjord) is the finest.
💡 Seyðisfjörður’s Skrá restaurant is the best in east Iceland — local lamb, Arctic char, and the freshest vegetables you’ll find in the country.
Mývatn’s volcanic landscape: Dimmuborgir (twisted lava formations), Krafla caldera and lava field (still warm underfoot in places), Hédín (bathing pools in hot spring water). Puffins nesting on the coastal cliffs near Húsavík in summer.
💡 Mývatn Nature Baths are less famous than the Blue Lagoon and considerably less expensive — geothermal bathing in the same milky-blue water, with a view over the volcanic landscape.
3h drive from Reykjavík: the Snæfellsnes Peninsula ends in the Snæfellsjökull glacier-volcano (the setting for Jules Verne’s Journey to the Centre of the Earth). Kirkjufell mountain (the most photographed peak in Iceland, pointed and green). Return to Reykjavík for the evening.
💡 Kirkjufell is most photographed from the south side, with the Kirkjufellsfoss waterfalls in the foreground. The light from the northwest in late evening (10pm in summer) is extraordinary.
Iceland’s Ring Road requires a car. A 4WD is needed for any highland F-road. Book well in advance.
A restaurant meal: ISK 4,000-7,000 (EUR 28-50). Accommodation: ISK 20,000-50,000/night. Budget accordingly.
The Icelandic saying: “If you don’t like the weather, wait five minutes.” Waterproof gear is essential everywhere, every day.
Summer dates sell out 3-4 months in advance. Book at bluelagoon.com.
The natural ice caves in Vatnajokull are only accessible when frozen solid.
The vedurstofan (Icelandic Met Office) app gives real-time aurora activity on a 1-9 scale.
Buying groceries at Bonus supermarket and cooking saves 60-70% on food costs.
Allow 10-14 days minimum for the full Ring Road with stops.
Reykjavík’s official city bus app — the only public transit in Iceland; covers all city routes.
FreeBook cottages, guesthouses and farmstays across Iceland — wider rural coverage than most hotel sites.
FreeBook Northern Lights tours, whale watching, glacier hikes and Golden Circle day trips.
FreeIceland’s official weather app — essential for safe outdoor travel; tracks storm and highland road alerts.
FreeReal-time alerts on road closures, mountain conditions and emergency warnings — must-have for driving.
FreeExplore Iceland’s top city destinations — from Akureyri to Reykjavik, each with its own distinct character.
Iceland sits within easy reach of several other destinations — each with a completely different character.